Recently we attended another wine class organized by the Neighborhood Restaurant Group, this time focused on Shenandoah Valley wines. I neglected to take a picture at the restaurant, so the image above is an AI interpretation of a Shenandoah vineyard.
The growth of vineyards in this region has been incredible. In 1980 there were six wineries, by 1995 26, and over 300 today. In 1982 the Shenandoah Valley became the first American Viticultural Area (AVA) in Virginia. AVA is roughly the equivalent in this country to a French wine appellation.
The very different climate in Virginia presents challenges for producing wine. There is a lot of rain and humidity, intense summer heat, and compact clay soil. The grapes that do best are thick-skinned and water-resistant. These are:
- Petit Manseng
- Viognier
- Petit Verdot
- Cabernet Franc
- Vidal Blanc
- Chamboucin
- Norton – a hybrid developed by Dr. Daniel Norton in 1817
We took a long weekend in Virginia wine country last year and so enjoyed learning more about the history of the region. Our favorite among the wines sampled was the 2021 Early Mountain Petit Manseng. We had first had this varietal as a delicious dessert wine made by Glen Manor in Front Royal, this was very different. Early Mountain was founded by Steve and Jean Case of AOL fame. The current winemaker is Maya Hood.
This is a textured white wine with lots of acidity and fruit, led by pineapple. There’s also some apple and some herbs. It’s somewhat similar to a French Viognier but more substantial. It’s a good wine to serve to people who usually prefer red.
New Discoveries
Earlier this year we stayed in Black Mountain, North Carolina and enjoyed some new wines. The 2020 D’Alfonzo Curran Pinot Noir was excellent and a great value at under $40. It has a beautifully perfumed nose of violets and delicious raspberry fruit. It’s on the lighter side for a CA Pinot, with integrated tannins, a hint of cranberry and pepper on the finish.
Gabriele found a new sparkler to enjoy in the 2020 Saint-Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux. Saint-Hilaire is supposedly the oldest sparkling wine in France, predating Champagne by a century. The grape here is Mauzac, with 5 percent Chardonnay and 5 percent Chenin Blanc. It was clean, toasty without being bready, with some crisp apple. Very affordable, and a nice change for Gabriele from Blanc de Blanc cremants.
Another Pinot with a beautiful nose was the 2020 Maritana Le Russe. The Maritana label is owned by Donald Patz, the Patz and Hall partner who went off on his own in 2017. This time it was tart cherry in the lead, with some subtle plum emerging after a few minutes in the glass. Very smooth and not too heavy, with a little green earth, a touch of cola and balsamic.
One night we grilled burgers at our rental and wanted something bold. The 2019 Dry Creek Mariner fit the bill nicely. A Bordeaux style Meritage, it was big and savory with being anywhere close to heavy or over the top. Blackberry and cassis lead the way, with hints of vanilla and white pepper. The tannins are on the soft side. It’s 61 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 percent Merlot, 11 percent Malbec, and 2 percent Cabernet Franc. It’s a quality New World Bordeaux blend.
The 2021 Y3 Cabernet Sauvignon is a clear expression of California Cabernet. Produced by Jax Vineyards and overseen by well-known winemaker Kirk Venge, this is a clean, straightforward Cab with nice density and tannin pucker. Black cherry and cassis with some spice on the finish.
Give one of these a try before the summer is over. Or if you’re local head out to the Shenandoah, one of the fastest growing AVAs in the country. Cheers.