The Rhone wine region in southern France is one of the most famous sources of wine in the world. Rhones wines can often deliver a quality to price ratio that other French regions such as Burgundy and Bordeaux can’t match. This Rhone roundup takes a look at five wines with broad availability in the DC/Virginia/Maryland area.
The northern and southern Rhone regions are quite different. In the north the red varietal Syrah dominates. Some famous appellations include Saint-Joseph, Crozes- Hermitage and Cornas. In the south many red varietals are permitted but the three dominant grapes are Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. Well known names include Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Most Rhone wine is produced in the south and sold under the general appellation Cotes du Rhone.
Perrin 2018 Cotes du Rhone Reserve – I found this wine to be on the softer side and very drinkable. It has straightforward fruit of raspberry and strawberry, with slight pepper on the finish. A good representation of southern Rhone. It went tart in the bottle overnight.
Jaume 2019 Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone – This Rhone had a currant bouquet and was approachable but not as soft. Right after pour it had a bit of a tannic bite and a hint of graphite along with currant and cherry fruit. After a few minutes in the glass this wine changes significantly and the fruit comes more forward. On day two the fruit recedes, it becomes heavier on the palate and the graphite returns.
Berthet-Rayne 2020 Cotes du Rhone – More of an earthy bouquet, with black fruit balanced by a taste of vegetation and brush. The texture was smooth. This is what people mean when they call some Rhones “rustic.” The wine went overly grapey second day.
Jaume 2018 Grad Veneur Les Champauvins Cotes Du Rhone – Another Jaume wine, made from vineyards very close to the Chateauneuf-du-Pape border. Plum on the bouquet, black fruit and some tartness. A bigger wine than the other Cotes du Rhone, almost chewy texture and some bramble on the finish. About $5 more than the other Jaume CDR. The second day the texture got smoother but the fruit more remote.
Saint Cosme 2020 Cotes du Rhone – Rich bouquet of black currant and some tartness. Hints of plum and violets, black pepper on the finish. Unusually for a CDR this wine is 100 percent Syrah. A bit rough and tannic right away, can use decanting. Wine is more approachable day two.
It’s possible to enjoy Rhone-style wines from regions other than France. The popularity of Rhone wines has spurred other countries to produce GSM-style wines – Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Californian and Australian producers in particular have given a New World take on the classic Rhone varietal blend. I wrote about this back in 2012 when I reviewed wines for WashingtonExec magazine.
Which wine “won” the Rhone roundup? As is often the case with wine it depends on personal palates and what you’re trying to achieve. For Syrah lovers who don’t want to pay for a northern appellation Saint Cosme is a compelling value. For a host going for an approachable wine to please the most guests I’d probably recommend the Perrin or the Berthet-Rayne. If you’re trying to introduce Rhone wine to a California Cabernet lover then the Jaume Les Champauvins would be a better bet.
These wines of course just scratch the surface of what the Rhone region produces. There are some beautiful white wines that warrant their own post. Find a spot on your table this holiday season and enjoy.